Imagine using stocked upper cabinets from Home Hardware to transform a back entrance into a pantry. Welcome home!
What you'll need:
- Table Saw
- 18V Drill
- Drill Bit Kit up to 5/8"
- Screw Bit Set
- Household Iron
- Fine Flat File
- Caulking Gun
- Forstner Bit, 1 ½"
- 36" x 30" Uppers (3)
- 36" x 15" Uppers Extended to 20" (3)
- 2" x 12" x 10' Pine
- 2" x 10" x 10' Pine
- ¾" Plywood (24" x 96")
- 1" x 6" x 8' V Groove Pine (22)
- 24" x 96" x 3/4"Plywood
- 24" x 7' Fridge Panels (4) for dividers, kick plate; top and end fillers are cut from the remnants.
- Melamine Glue
- 1 1/4" Pan Washer Wood Screws (100)
- 2 1/2" Pan Washer Wood Screws (40)
- Cabinet Doors
- 1" Iron-on Melamine Tape
- Beauti-Tone alkyd primer
- Cabinet and Furniture Paint
- Rust Coat spray paint (black)
- 30" x 30" Uppers Built out to 17" (2)
- Cabinet Doors (4)
- 24" x 7' Fridge Panel
- 1" White Iron-on Melamine Tape
- 3/4" Plywood (12" x 96")
- 1 ¼" Pan Washer Screws (50)
- 4" #10 Screws (20)
- 5/8" Washers (8)
- 5/8" Nuts (8)
- 5/8" x 2" Bolts (8)
- 2" x 12" x 10' Pine
- Brackets (4)
Prepare the wall:
- Screw four strips of 3/4" x 6" plywood into the studs at the top and bottom of the upper cabinet height, and the top and bottom of the base cabinet height. Be certain to mark the stud locations to secure the cabinets to the wall later.
- Nail the tongue and groove boards to the wall.
- Prime with alkyd primer to seal knots, then paint the entire paneled wall in Beauti-Tone Furniture and Cabinet paint.
- Build the base 4" high by the same dimensions of the complete lower units from 3/4" plywood. Glue blocks in corners for strength. (shown: base cabinets built out 19").
- Finish the kick board with white melamine iron-on tape on the tip edge. Trim and screw on from the inside.
- Assemble the lower cabinets, leaving out the bottom support and back panel. Build the cabinets to designed depth. Cut a fridge panel to cover the side that is flush to the front of the doors. Secure cabinets from both sides with 1 1/4" screws.
- On the outside ends, glue and screw wood blocks to receive the filler strip between the cabinet and the wall.
- Cut and attach extension pieces with glue and screws.
- Build the seat area with 2" pine. To achieve the desired width, join two boards together with a loose tongue.
- Determine the mounting height of uppers to allow for ceiling moulding detail.
- Assemble the upper cabinets leaving the backs out to show the tongue and groove, and screw through the back supports into the studs.
- Cut dividers between cabinets from the fridge panels to extend from the bench top to the top of the cabinets plus 1" to allow it to be flush to door fronts.
- Plumb and centre the cabinets screwing into the studs and fastening the dividers with 1 1/2" screw from the inside.
- At the ends cut pieces from the fridge panel to fit between the last divider and the wall, fill any gaps with caulking.
- Screw blocks flush to the cabinet fronts to attach ceiling detail, cut a piece from fridge panel to fit between the top edge of the cabinet and the ceiling molding.
- Finish bottom edge with iron-on melamine tape. Fasten to the blocks from behind.
- Complete ceiling trim, attach doors, handles and place shelves.
- Build the base plus kick plate
- Assemble the cabinets
- Cut the ends 1" deeper than cabinets to be flush with doors.
- Screw to wall.
- Attach counter of desired choice.
- Crafted from 2" x 12" pine to make substantial shelves that will not warp.
- Cut to size, and then sand.
- Modified brackets: Enlarge holes on brackets to 5/8", and paint the brackets, washers, nuts, and bolts with black spray paint.
- Counter sink on shelf with 1 1/2" forstner bit to a depth of 1/2".
- Prime and paint with Beauti-Tone Cabinet & Furniture paint
- Flip utility brackets upside down, spray paint flat black and attach with bold bolts and recessed washers.